Western Turkey Complete

Hey folks!

So Turkey is half finished already, time flies. I guess I posted a couple hundred photos without any real insights into the country itself. Ill try to fill you in the best I can.

Based on my negative 'review' on Egypt you can imagine how much I was looking forward to something new. The typical mind/body/soul trinity were really drained. After the mental warefare that is Egypt, I was read to go home. Nothing would have made me happier than to sit in a hot-tub then sleep for a decade.

Arriving into Instanbul after a quick hour long flight from Cairo, I was feeling pretty positive. Although my attitude was a touch more jaded I put on an effort to start fresh. My head was really wrapped around money actually. Heading into Instanbul was my first real step into Europe. How much is this darn place gonna cost me? Am I gonna have to go home early? These types of questions can really ruin EVERYTHING. I refused, mentally, to let these fears into my head. Taking a deep breath, hoping onto the metro, I pushed open the door to Europe.

My first impression on Instanbul couldnt have been more positive. Everything from the cobble-stone streets to the smell of the air. The transit was nice and fast from the airport bringing me to the famous Sultanahmet district of town. This area is on the European side of Istanbul and represents the ideas, beliefs, and cultural habbits on the 'new' Turk. Not only do you have some world wonders here, but you have one of the worlds greatest vistas, The Bosphorus.

To quote Lonely Planet,

"Turkey's major city is like a juicy, sugar-dusted morsel of lokum (Turkish delight) just waiting to be devoured. Its flavours are rose water, pistachio, almond and cinnamon - all rich, complex and redolent of the exotic East - but its packaging is different, reminiscent of the elegantly boxed treats sold in Paris' Fauchon or London's Fortnum Mason. East meets West here, all in one delicious mouthful."

They (LP) go on to describe that Istanbul offers the greatest examples of Byzantine art and architecure in the world. As I got off the tram, yes a Europa tram, I headed straight towards one of the cooliest buildings ive ever seen, The Blue Mosque. As another check on my list for world wonders I was drawn to this mosque. I stumbled through gardens, hawkers, elegant Turkish couples, and stray cats finally reaching the steps inside. I remember saying aloud, "Now this is a city, I could live here".

Pulling myself away from the vortex that is the Blue Mosque I headed down to the main hostel area. Clearly in Europe I walked past trendy cafes, bakeries, and little family owned homestays. The hostel scene is great here- the rooftop padio gave me excellent views of both The Blue Mosque and the older Aya Sofia. My daughter will be named Aya Sofia.
http://danaroundtheworld.blogspot.com/2007/04/blue-mosque-and-aya-sofia.html

After taking a night off I headed out early to explore the city. My first two stops were the insides of both of the famous mosques. You'll need to recap them from my previous posts.
Next I headed to the Grand Bazaar. Imagine over 4000 shops and several kilometers of lanes.
http://danaroundtheworld.blogspot.com/2007/04/around-instanbul-turkey.html

Day three brings me to the stunning Topkapi Palace. This is where many movies, books, and legends were made. Its rumoured when the Sultan got bored of his 150 wives he tied them in burlap sacks and dropped them into the Bosphorous. Sounds like a keeper, that one!
http://danaroundtheworld.blogspot.com/2007/04/topkapi-palace-and-harem.html

After about a week in Istanbul I decided it was time to get out and head south. I didnt even visit the Asian side of Instanbul as I will be return at the end of my Turkey Jaunt. A quick 8 hour bus ride and ferry brings out to Cannakale and Galipoli warfields. I decided it was time to bring another factor of cost saving into my trip, hitchhiking. I hitched around the major sights visiting all the cemetaries and coastal parks. I wont get into to much detail but the Turks and ANZAC (Australia and New Zealand Army Corps.) killed each other for way to long in WWI and accomplished nothing. The 3rd day brought me to the ruins of Troy.
http://danaroundtheworld.blogspot.com/2007/04/two-ferries-3-hitch-hikes-and-3-hour.html
http://danaroundtheworld.blogspot.com/2007/04/troy.html

From Cannakale I headed further south past Izmir and into Selchuk. Selchuk is base camp for visiting Ephesus, Temple of Artemis and Castle of John the Apostle. All very cool.
http://danaroundtheworld.blogspot.com/2007/04/ephesus.html

Pammukkale was next for me. Heading down from Cannakale to Denzili I got into a little spat. The bus ticket I bought was supposed to include a transfer from Denzili to Pammukale. During the ride to Denzili a youngish Turk got onto the bus and prentend to check our tickets but walked away with them instead. I quickly perked up and asked for it back but he shook his head as if it wouldnt matter. When it came time to transfering to Pammukale all the involved parties played dumn and told me it wasnt included. I had none of it. Causing a massive scene I started screaming for police and grabbed onto the front of the bus causing it to shake. Its quite amusing now that I think back. Everyone started to crowd around and a fellow traveller from South America ran to get the police. The police came and did nothing. I stay on the front window until something was settled. One of the companies workers forked over 10 lyra to pay for the transfer. Yippie! When I got down from the bus the crowd started to clap. Apparently it happens all the time. http://danaroundtheworld.blogspot.com/2007/04/pamukkale-travertines-and-hieriopolis.html

After Pammukale I headed down for Olympos, Teremossos, Antalya and up to Cappadocia. Check my links for pictures.
http://danaroundtheworld.blogspot.com/2007/04/teremossos-turkey.html
http://danaroundtheworld.blogspot.com/2007/04/open-air-museum-cappadocia-turkey.html

The last couple days have been spent in Antakya waiting to cross the border into Syria. Today was pretty crazy as It took me about 6 hours to get 50kms. I took a bus from Turkey to the border and waited in the office of immigration for 4 hours. They had to fax a request down to Damasscus to let me into the country. I had to hit the black market to trade for american money and then finally hitchiked from a small village to Aleppo, Syria. Welcome back to the Middle-East. Heh

So what have I learned about Western Turkey?

Culture: Its unreal here. I like to think of it as "Middle-East Lite". Ive been comfortable talking to people about Christianity, Politics, Western Foreign Policy, and Islam. Turkish people seem to be very liberal about globalization and change. They seem to just get it. They are willing to change to meet with todays demand. Although geographically Turkey is 99% Asian the ideas being pushed around are clearly European. They dont want to be riding around on camels for the next 100 years. I hate to use that but its so true. They want the knowledge. I loved the debates over dinner where it was me and a Turkish Muslim against a group of tourists from Denmark, France, Mexico and Germany. Who would have thought a Christian and a Muslim could argue pro-change, pro- globalization, and anti Islamic Fundamentalism. Good times. The fear of losing your 'culture' and tradition is destroying new ideas over here. Anyways..... Turks rock for being open-minded and willing.

Tourism: Far from what it was. (After 9/11) Turkey is really amazing when it comes to how tourists are handled. Its so rare to hear of any bad experiences from Turkey. Anytime I go to a forum people ask, " France, Italy or Turkey?", Turkey always comes out ontop. From the speedy buses, cheap good eats, to friendly as heck people you cannot miss out on a good time. Infact Turkey is notorious for female travellers coming here and falling in love with a charming Turkish man. They are that cool. Id say 30% of the pensions are owned by a Turkish-Foreigner couple. Cool things.

Religion: 99% muslim. Nothing much to say here other than people arent persecuted for being of a different belief. (Except for the odd honor killing in the east)

Food: Great! Lentil Soups, tasty unlimited amounts of bread, chicken stews, assorted kebaps, meatballs and more! Turkish tea certainly isnt overated, same goes for the delight!

Weather: Bah! First time on my trip the weather hasnt been spot on. Overcast all day. Not their fault! Im here out of season!

So Western Turkey has been such as great time. I have seen some of the best ruins, souqs, natural attractions, and people. I have yet to visit eastern Turkey and am really looking forward to it. Apparently its even better than the west. I have another 13 days in Syria then ive got 3 weeks to explore the rest of Turkey. Yay!

Well after the bueracracy of today im heading for a buffet at the Sheraton! Wee!

The beast in the Middle-East,

D.